Prepare your area as if you were installing sod. The site should have 10cm (4 inches) of quality loam (soil). It should then be leveled, raked to remove any debris, and lightly compacted. If there are weeds present they should be removed mechanically or chemically.

Yes, absolutely. And of course our quotes are at no charge

With the correct care, anytime between spring thaw and fall freeze. Spring – gives you a jump on a nice lush lawn for summer and fall. Summer – depending on your vacation schedule, the summer can be an excellent time to hydroseed. Make sure you water a little more frequently due to the hot weather. Fall – gives you a nice lush lawn for the following spring. The lawn will be a little thin in the fall, but by next spring it will thicken up and fill in nicely. Late Fall – Areas hydroseeded in the in late fall will germinate in early spring.

Unless your area is seeded late in the season (when daytime temperatures are less than 10ºC), germination typically takes place in 4 to 7 days. This can vary due to ambient temperatures and moisture conditions. It is important to note that some of the seed varieties will take up to 21 days to germinate. The first mowing is often within 4 weeks.

Your Hydro-Seeded application contains grass seed that requires a continuous supply of moisture. This moisture must come from rainfall or watering. It is not likely that it will rain every day for the next week or two, so be sure to water frequently enough to keep moisture in the soil. Initial Watering During the establishment phase, twice-a -day watering us usually appropriate during May and June; however, the weather conditions may require more or less water. On very hot summer days, three or more waterings a day may be required. Avoid puddling and washing, but water thoroughly. The second phase of the watering program begins when the grass is about 2.5 cm (1”) tall. Reduce the frequency of watering to once a day. In the very hot summer, three times a a day during the hotest times are required. Also reduce or discontinue watering during wet and/or cool periods. Mowing A new lawn should be mowed as soon as the grass blades are 3" to 4 ” tall. Delaying the first cutting encourages weed growth, and allows long grass blades to bend over, causing a shabby appearance. Mowing plays a vital role in controlling the weeds, giving the grass the opportunity to “choke out the weeds”. Subsequent mowing should be done every week, and the blades of the lawnmower should always be kept sharp. Sharp blades prevent bruised and torn grass blades. Bruised or damaged grass invites grass disease and results in unsightly brown spots. If the grass gets too tall before is is mowed, raise the mower. Mowing young tall grass too close can damage the grass. A good rule of thumb is to never mow off more than one-third of the grass leaves during any one cutting. Initial Fertilizing Program It is recommended that additional balanced fertilizer be applied after the first mowing. Apply fertilizer on the lawn area when it is dry and then water thoroughly. If required, this is a service we can provide. DO NOT USE WEED KILLER ON A NEW LAWN.

The green mulch is only a colouring agent for us to see while we are applying the hydroseed. It is safe for sidewalks, driveways, pets, ect. Within a few sunny days, the ultraviloet light from the sun will fade the colour away

All components of the hydroseeding process are environmentally friendly and will not cause harm to pets.

Yes, but carefully. Avoid heavy traffic and keep pets from entering the area as much as possible. While the mulch protects the seed as it germinates, remember that the grass is still in a delicate state and should be cared for accordingly.

Do not spray them! Weed seeds exist in the loam, are activated by tilling or raking, and then germinate alongside the grass seed. Usually in a matter of a few weeks as the grass matures and fills in, the weeds get choked out. Weed sprays – even those designed for use in turf grass – can damage young grass plants.

Hydroseeding blends can include any number of varieties of grasses including fescues, ryegrass, wheat grass, bluegrass, and others. For acreages or commercial projects seed blends can be chosen to have lower maintenance requirements, high wearability, and better drought and heat tolerance. Municipal and industrial blends will often include native grasses and grasses and plants designed to grow in particular conditions such as wet areas, pasture lands, and for soil stabilization. The average residential blend contains: fast-germinating ryegrass which
acts as a nurse crop to protect the other grasses as they germinate; fescues which germinate more slowly than the ryegrass and give a lawn excellent wear and drought tolerance; and bluegrasses which give lawns the deep green color and the soft feel that most customers desire for their lawns.

Yes, we have a variety of equipment to deliver high quality loam and grading.